OUR JEWELLERY GUIDE

 JEWELLERY GUIDE - OUR SILVER, GOLD & GEMSTONES

We thought that you might like to know a bit more about the beautiful gemstones we use in our jewellery, so we commissioned Lucy Ellor FGA (Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain) to produce a guide to the properties, sources, composition, and the fascinating folklore and legend which surrounds many precious and semi-precious stones.

Each piece of gemstone jewellery you purchase will be accompanied by an information card. And, if you are not sure which stone to look for, we have a list of birthstones and gems traditionally given for wedding anniversaries.

Brief information on stones and precious metals is set out alphabetically below, with links to Care and Further Fascinating Facts. For an overview, see ‘What is a Gemstone?’.

Agate

Agate is a variety of chalcedony, a form of quartz.  The names agate and chalcedony are interchangeable, but agate is usually the name for banded chalcedony. Agate is thought to be named after the Silician River Achates, where some agates were found. 

Agates can be transparent to opaque in a rainbow of colours, with concentric layers of banding. Moss agate, picture agate, crazy lace agate and blue lace agate are among some of the varieties. Agate is found all over the world but was first discovered by Stone Age man in France and was used for tools.  From around 3000 BC agate was used by Egyptians for seals, ring stones and vessels.  As a talisman or amulet in ancient times, agate was highly valued.  It was thought to protect the wearer from thunderstorms, to quench thirst and give powers of oratory.

Care

Amethyst

Amethyst is the purple variety of the quartz group of minerals. The name amethyst comes from the Greek ‘amethystos’ meaning ‘not intoxicated’, as it was believed to protect against drunkenness.  It is found in southern Brazil, Uruguay, Madagscar, Canada and the Russian Urals.

Amethyst has been a stone of royalty over thousands of years.  Fine amethysts are found in the British Crown Jewels and were also favoured by Catherine the Great and Egyptian Pharoahs.  Amethyst was also considered to be the stone of bishops, and St. Valentine wore an amethyst signet ring, engraved with his assistant, Cupid.

As a birthstone, amethyst symbolises sincerity and is reported to soothe and calm, absorbing negativity.

Birthstone for February

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Apatite

Apatite can be colourless, white, yellow, brown, pink, red, purple, blue and green and even multi-coloured.  Apatite is found abundantly in the Kola Peninsula in Russia, with other deposits in Germany, Austria, Portugal, Brazil, Sri Lanka and Mexico. Apatite found in Spain is usually greenish-yellow and is called ‘asparagus stone’.  Recent discoveries of a neon green to neon blue apatite in Madagascar have increased the popularity of the stone.

The name Apatite comes from the Greek ‘apate’ meaning ‘to deceive’, because the gem was often confused with other stones. Apatite has been associated with appetite suppression for centuries.  It is also believed to enhance creativity and self-confidence.

Care

Aquamarine

Aquamarine is a pale blue variety of the mineral beryl.The best aquamarine is found in Brazil.  The name aquamarine is derived from the Latin ‘aqua’ for water and ‘mare’ for sea.

Since ancient times, aquamarine has been the stone for vision and was often set in eyes of statues, to symbolize power and wisdom.  According to legend, a person who looked at the statues would become wise and see into the future.  Statues were often placed in strategic positions on the coast, to calm to wrath of Poseidon, to ensure ships’ safety.  Aquamarine has been regarded as the sailors’ lucky stone.  As a birthstone, aquamarine cleanses the mind and it is believed to eradicate fears and phobias.  Wearing an aquamarine ensures a good marriage and brings the wearer happiness and good fortune.

Birthstone for March & October

Wedding Anniversary stone: 19^th year

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Carnelian

Carnelian is the translucent red variety of Chalcedony, ranging in colour from reddish brown to orange brown. The name carnelian comes from the latin ‘carnis’ meaning flesh, and the best deposits occur in India, where it is placed in the sun to change brown tints to red.

Carnelian has been used as a gemstone for thousands of years. The ancient Egyptians believed the stone had special powers in the afterlife.  Ancient Greeks and Romans used it for signet rings, cameos and intaglios.  They believed the stone would offer protection against evil and also a continuation of hope, comfort and good luck.

As a birthstone, it is thought to calm anger and banish negativity, replacing it with a zest for life.

Birthstone for July (also see Ruby)

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Citrine

Citrine is a member of the quartz group of minerals and ranges in colour from light yellow to golden brown.  Names such as ‘Brandy’ or ‘Madeira’ Citrine are used for the darker varieties.

The name Citrine is derived from the French ‘citron’ meaning lemon.  Citrine is found in Brazil, Spain, Russia, France, Scotland and the USA. For a very long time the gemstone has been considered to have magical powers.  It was thought to protect against the plague, snake and spider bites and evil people.  It was also thought to improve the functioning of some organs, such as the liver, heart, kidneys and digestive system.  Given as a present, Citrine is a symbol of hope and strength.

Birthstone for November

Wedding Anniversary stone: 13^th year

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Cubic Zirconium (Faux Diamond)

Cubic Zirconium (Cz) is a manufactured gemstone, widely used as a diamond substitute, cut from crystals grown in a laboratory.  As Cz is man-made, it is available in a rainbow of colours, achieved by adding different minerals during its creation.

The differences between diamond and its substitute are weight, hardness and cost.  Cz is much heavier than diamond, not as hard, but much less expensive.  Unlike natural diamond, Cz is flawless, as it does not contain diamond’s impurities and inclusions.  It became very popular in the 1980’s, when Swarovski, a famous producer of leaded crystal, began mass producing the stone.

Substitute Birthstone for April [also see diamond & rock crystal]

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Diamond

Diamond is composed of carbon and ranges in colour from colourless to yellow, orange, pink, green, blue, brown and black. The word diamond comes from the Greek ‘adamas; meaning unconquerable, due to its unique hardness.

Diamonds were first found in India in 600 BC but the most important diamond source is now South Africa.  Diamonds have been prized throughout history, the Ancient Greeks and Romans believed diamonds were the tears of the gods and splinters falling from the stars.  Diamond has been used for centuries as an expression of love and marriage and has become a favourite stone for an engagement ring.  Queen Elizabeth II owns many important diamonds including the Cullinan I and Cullinan II, cut from the largest diamond ever mined.

Birthstone for April (also see Rock Crystal)

Wedding Anniversary stone: 60^th year

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Emerald

Emerald belongs to the beryl mineral family, and is a deep green colour.  Emeralds often contain inclusions called ‘jardin’, due to their likeness to garden foliage. The name emerald comes from the Greek ‘Smaragdos’, meaning green stone.

The earliest emerald finds were near the Red Sea in Egypt but today the main emerald producing country is Columbia.  Emerald has been cherished as a gemstone for over 4000 years. It was a favourite gemstone of Cleopatra who wore lavish emerald set jewellery. The Incas and Aztecs of South America regarded the emerald as a holy stone.  In ancient Rome, the Romans dedicated the stone to Venus, the goddess of beauty and love, and associated emeralds with fertility and renewal. A gift of emerald is considered to be a sign of love and devotion

Birthstone for May

Wedding Anniversary stone: 20^th & 35^th years

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Fluorite

The mineral Fluorite forms in a variety of colours including purple, violet, pink, green, yellow, brown, blue and colourless.  Many fluorites are a single colour but others have colour bands.

Fluorite is mined worldwide in Argentina, Austria, Canada, China, Spain, Switzerland, Namibia, Norway, Madagascar, the USA, and, in the UK, the famous ‘Blue John’ variety is found in Derbyshire, England.

The name fluorite comes from the Latin ‘fluere’ meaning ‘to flow’, referring to its use as a flux in smelting. The Romans believed that drinking alcohol from fluorite vessels prevented drunkenness.  In the 18^th Century, fluorite was ground into a powder and mixed with water to treat kidney disease.

Fluorite is a favourite stone of healers as it is believed to have a calming effect on the body, bringing order to one’s life, by encouraging positive thoughts.

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Garnet

Garnets occur in red, green and orange tones and have many names; almandine, andradite, demantoid, grossular, hessonite, pyrope, rhodolite, tsavorite, spessartite and uravorite.  They are found in India, Central and South America, Sri Lanka, Russia and Africa.

The name ‘garnet’ comes from Latin ‘granatus’.  When garnet was found as grains in rock, it was likened to the rich, red seeds of the pomegranate.  A Greek myth tells the story of Persephone who was abducted by Hades, god of the underworld.  Persephone was released by Hades when he offered her some pomegranate seeds, which made sure she would return to him.  It is from this legend that garnet is believed to be the protective gemstone for travellers.  A gift of the stone symbolises the desire for a loved one’s safe journey and speedy return home.

Birthstone for January (see also Rose Quartz)

Wedding Anniversary stone: 2^nd year

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Gold

Gold is one of the three Precious Metals: Platinum, Gold and Silver. Gold is a chemical element with the symbol Au from the Latin aurum, which means shining dawn.

It is a highly sought-after precious metal which, for thousands of years, has been used as currency, a visible symbol of wealth and self adornment. Gold is found in igneous rocks and quartz veins or in the form of deposits of nuggets and grains found in river beds. The main areas for Gold-Mining are Africa, the USA, the former USSR, Canada, Australia and South America.

Gold is dense, soft, shiny and the most malleable and ductile of the known metals. The purity of gold used in Jewellery varies from 9 carat, through 14, 18 & 22 carat up to 24 carat, which is pure gold. In the UK, Gold products must be hallmarked to indicate the purity of the alloy that is used in the making of the piece.

All of our gold jewellery is either 22ct or 18ct, which means that it contains either 91.67% or 75% pure gold, respectively.  Jewellery of 14ct or 9ct contains only 58.3% or 37.5% pure gold.  The remaining percentage is made up of one or more alloys, which affect the hardness and malleability of the finished article.  They also change the colour of the metal, and white gold is achieved by mixing yellow gold with white alloys.

Wedding Anniversary: 50^th year

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Gold Vermeil

Vermeil is the term used to describe sterling silver that has been surface plated with gold. Vermeil is produced by the process of electrolysis. Electrolysis involves the passage of an electric current through a chemical containing the gold, the jewellery piece acts as an electrode, attracting the gold particles which permanently adhere to the silver surface.

Vermeil is often used in the creation of jewellery. To be identified as vermeil, the gold covering the silver must be a minimum of 10 carat and at least 1.5 micrometers thick. Sterling silver covered with any other metal cannot be called vermeil.

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Iolite

Iolite is a variety of the mineral Cordierite.  The stone is violet blue in colour and displays an optical property called pleochroism -   this means that it shows a different colour or depth of colour, when viewed in different directions.

Iolite is found in igneous rocks and pegmatite intrusions with its main deposits in Burma, Brazil, Sri Lanka, India and Madagascar. 

The name ‘Iolite’ comes from the Greek ‘ios’ meaning violet. Iolite has been referred to as the Viking compass.  When Leif Eriksson and other Viking explorers set out into the Atlantic Ocean, thin pieces of iolite were used as the first polarizing filter.  Looking through the lens, they were able to determine the exact position of the sun, even on cloudy days and in turn were able to navigate their way safely on the seas.

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Labradorite

Labradorite belongs to the feldspar family.  It is a greyish stone with an iridescent play of colour called labradorescence.  Light striking labradorite causes rainbow reflections in violet, blue, green, yellow, orange and red. Labradorite occurs in Labrador in Canada, the place of its origin, the USA, Australia, Mexico, Norway, Finland and Madagascar.

According to an Eskimo legend, the Northern Lights were once imprisoned in the rock along Labrador’s coast.  A warrior found them and freed the lights with a huge blow of his spear.  Some of the lights remained trapped within the stone, giving the beautiful mineral known as Labradorite.

Labradorite is believed to provide relief from anxious thoughts and depression, replacing with enthusiasm, inspiration and confidence.  It is also thought to bring good luck.

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Lapis Lazuli

Lapis Lazuli is a dark blue rock, mainly made up of lazurite.   It is often characterized by sparkly, golden inclusions of pyrite.  Large deposits of lapis can be found in Afghanistan and Chile.

The name Lapis Lazuli is derived from Latin ‘lapis’ meaning stone and Arabic ‘azul’ meaning blue.  Lapis is one of the oldest known gemstones and was first mined 6000 years ago in Afghanistan.  The Egyptians ground the stone to make eye shadow.  In Renaissance paintings, lapis was an ingredient in ultramarine paint.  Lapis was also used as a medicine, mixed with milk, as a dressing for boils and ulcers.  The Romans thought it was a powerful aphrodisiac.  Lapis is considered a stone for teachers, promoting awareness and wisdom and used to enhance creativity.

Wedding Anniversary stone: 9^th year

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Moonstone

Moonstone belongs to the feldspar family.   It ranges in colour from colourless to blue, peach, pink, green, yellow, brown and grey, with an iridescent sheen called ‘schiller’, meaning colourful play of light. Moonstone comes from Sri Lanka, the USA, Brazil, Australia, Myanmar and the rainbow variety from Madagascar.

The stone was popular with the Romans who thought it was formed from moonlight and believed it changed its look during phases of the moon.  Moonstone is a sacred gemstone in India where they are regarded as ‘dream stones’, bringing the wearer beautiful visions at night. In East Indian tradition, moonstone represents the symbol of the Third eye and clarifies spiritual understanding.  The stone was popular in the 20^th Century in Art Nouveau jewellery, particularly that by Rene Lalique.

Birthstone for June (see also Pearl)

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Black Onyx

Onyx is a black or banded variety of chalcedony, found in Mexico, India, Brazil, Madagascar, Algeria and Pakistan.  The colours of the bands range from white, to shades of black, brown & tan.  Onyx was used in the memorial jewelry for Queen Victoria and was a popular component of Art Deco jewellery.

The name onyx comes from the Greek ‘onux’ meaning nail.  Legend has it that Cupid cut the fingernails of Venus while she was asleep.  He left the clippings on the beaches, but since no part of a heavenly body can die, the fates turned them into stone, known as chalcedony, hence Onyx was believed to encourage the growth of fingernails, hair and skin.   Crystal healers believe onyx promotes happiness and improves concentration. In India, onyx has been worn around the neck to cool the ardours of love.

Birthstone for August (also see Peridot)

Wedding Anniversary stone: 7^th year

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Pearl

Pearls are an organic substance; the only gem created from a living creature and may be natural or cultured. In nature, a foreign body enters a mollusc shell. The mollusc coats the irritant with layers of iridescent ‘nacre’ as protection, which is the outside of the pearl.

Today, 95% of pearls are cultured in Japan and China, where a shell bead is placed inside the mollusc by man.  Pearls range in colour from white, cream, pink, lilac, silver, gold and black and some are dyed to create more vivid colours. The name pearl comes from the Latin ‘perula’, meaning small pear. Wealthy Roman women would wear pearls in bed to remind them of their wealth as they woke and a Roman General financed a war by selling one of his mother’s pearl earrings.  In ancient China, pearls were swallowed to cure eye diseases and fever. They were also thought to bring wealth, power and longevity.

Birthstone for June (also see Moonstone)

Wedding Anniversary stone: 3^rd & 30^th years

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Peridot

Peridot is a gem form of the mineral olivine and can range in colour from bright lime to olive green.  The best peridots are abundantly found on the border of Pakistan and Afghanistan. They are also found in China, USA, Myanmar, Africa and Australia.

The name peridot comes from the Greek ‘peridona’ meaning ‘to give richness’.It has been used as a gemstone for thousands of years and has been found in much Egyptian jewellery.  The Romans had a particular liking for peridot and called it ‘evening emerald’ as the colour remained bright and light at night. Peridot has also been found in medieval churches in Europe, probably carried by the Crusades.  Very large peridots are set in a shrine in Cologne Cathedral.  Peridot is particularly sacred in Hawaii as it is believed to be the goddess Pele’s tears.

Birthstone for August (also see Black Onyx)

Wedding Anniversary stone: 16^th year

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Prehnite

Prehnite is a bright, luminescent green coloured mineral.   The colour can range from a pale green to grass green but can also be grey, white or colourless.

Prehnite was first found by Colonel Hendrik Von Prehn in the early 18^th Century, in the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa and was considered to be very rare and exotic until more recent finds have made it more affordable.

Prehnite is referred to as the ‘prediction’ stone. It is believed to facilitate communication through meditation and is used to encourage lucid dreaming.  Placing prehnite near one’s bed is thought to help remember dreams. Crystal healers use prehnite to reduce high blood pressure and control hypertension and believe that its colour generates calmness and tranquillity.

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Rock Crystal

Rock Crystal is the clear, colourless variety of quartz.  Quartz is the most abundant mineral on earth, making up 12% of the earth’s crust.  The gemstone can contain inclusions of other minerals such as golden rutile or black tourmaline.

The name rock crystal comes from the Greek ‘krustallos’ meaning ice.  Legend says that the ancient Greeks, who found the mineral in caves near MountOlympus, thought that it was water frozen so hard, it would never thaw.  Rock Crystal is found worldwide, but the best quality is located in the USA, in the Hot Springs area of Arkansas.  Since ancient times, rock crystal has been used to make balls, ornamental objects and bowls. Crystal balls have been used by magicians and healers to foretell the future. Wearing rock crystal is thought to promote good health and well being.

Birthstone for April (also see Diamond)

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Rose Quartz

Rose quartz is an opaque to translucent, pale pink to rose red variety of the mineral quartz.  Most of the world’s supply comes from Brazil but is also found in India, Germany, Madagascar and a few localities in the USA.

The name quartz comes from the Saxon word ‘querklufterz’ which meant ‘cross vein ore’ and ‘rose’ from the rose flower, whose colour the gemstone resembles. Rose quartz has been used as a gemstone and carved as ornamental and religious objects for thousands of years. Historically, it is a symbol of love and beauty, as legend says that Eros brought rose quartz to earth hoping that its beautiful pink colour would arouse love and desire among people.  All through the Middle Ages and up until today, rose quartz has been given as a love token.

Birthstone for January [see also Garnet]

Wedding Anniversary stone: 2^nd year

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Ruby

Ruby is a red variety of the mineral Corundum, The best colour is ‘pigeon’s blood’. Rubies are found in Burma, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Tanzania, Madagascar and Cambodia.

The name ‘Ruby’ comes from the Latin ‘ruber’ meaning red.  Rubies have been mined for about 2,500 years and are one of the most valued gemstones.  Hindus believed the red colour came from an internal flame that could not be put out, making the stone a symbol of everlasting love. Some cultures believed ruby could protect the wearer from injury, due to its blood-like colour. Ancient Burmese warriors put a ruby beneath the skin so no one could conquer them in battle.  In the Middle Ages, it was believed rubies had the power to prophesie.  They would darken in colour to warn it’s wearer of impending danger and then lighten once the peril had disappeared.

Birthstone for July (also see carnelian)

Wedding Anniversary stone: 15^th & 40^th years

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Sapphire

Sapphire is a pale blue to deep indigo variety of the mineral Corundum.  It also forms in colourless, pale pink, orange, green, yellow, violet and brown, called ‘fancy sapphires’.  Mined mainly in Australia, the desirable cornflower blue sapphire comes from Kashmir, in India.

The name sapphire comes from Latin ‘sapphirus’, meaning blue and Greek ‘sappheiros’ from the island where sapphires were first found. According to legend, sapphires protected against snakes.  If a sapphire was placed in a jar with serpents, they would die. In the Middle Ages, priests wore sapphires to protect against impure thoughts and warriors gave their wives sapphire necklaces to ensure fidelity.  In the 13^th Century, the French thought that sapphire transformed stupidity to wisdom and irritability to good temper.

Birthstone for September

Wedding Anniversary stone: 5^th & 45^th years

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Silver

Silver is one of the three Precious Metals: Platinum, Gold and Silver. It is among the first metals ever discovered. It is a chemical element with the symbol Ag from the Latin argentum: meaning white and shining.

Silver is a warm and tactile material to wear, as it has one of the highest electrical conductivities of any element and the highest thermal conductivity of any metal.

Man has mined and made use of Silver for thousands of years, creating a diverse range of products, from currency and tableware to jewellery and sculpture. Most silver is now extracted alongside the mining of copper and lead, mainly in the former USSR, the USA, South America and Australia.

Wedding Anniversary: 25^th year

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Sterling Silver

Pure Silver is a very soft metal, mixing it with a small amount of alloy such as copper gives it strength whilst retaining its colour and malleability. Sterling Silver is 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals, the most common being copper, although other metals such as germanium, zinc and platinum can also be used.

In the UK, Silver products must be hallmarked to indicate the purity of the silver that is used in the making of the piece. The Hallmark also usually indicates the individual silversmith, or the company, that has made the piece, the office at which it was marked and the year of manufacture. More information on hallmarking can be found here.

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Smoky Quartz

Smoky quartz is a transparent brown variety of quartz.  Smoky quartz’s unique colour comes from exposure, over a long time, to natural radiation from nearby rocks. The name quartz comes from the Saxon word querklufterz which meant cross vein ore. Most smoky quartz is mined in Brazil but it is also found in the USA and the Cairngorm mountains in Scotland.

Smoky quartz has been used in jewellery for thousands of years. Ancient Egyptians made beads and scarab figures and the Romans used it for carving intaglio seals.  In China, snuff bottles were made from the stone.  Smoky quartz is the national gemstone of Scotland and a sacred stone, a belief dating back to the Druids. It is said to have a calming effect, and is believed to increase fertility, remove toxins from the body and to aid proper functioning of organs.

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Tourmaline

The name tourmaline comes from the Sinhalese ‘tura mali’ meaning ‘mixed stone’ owing to the rainbow of colours in which the stone is formed.  According to an Egyptian legend, tourmaline, when journeying up from the core of the earth, crossed over a rainbow and assumed all of its colours.

The Russian Crown jewels from the 17^th century were set with tourmalines and the last Empress of China bought nearly a ton of tourmalines from a Himalayan mine and eventually was laid to rest on a carved pillow of the gemstone.

As a birthstone, it is thought that tourmaline can help with love and friendship.  It induces peaceful sleep and dispels fear, negativity and grief. In mediaeval times, it was believed to heal physical and mental problems and to prevent death.

Birthstone for October (see also Aquamarine)

Wedding Anniversary stone: 8^th year

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Turquoise

Turquoise is a sky blue to green grey stone found in Iran, Kazakhstan, China, Australia, Mexico and Brazil.  Veins – known as ‘matrix’ - often run through it.

The name turquoise comes from the old French ‘turquoise’ meaning Turkish Stone as it originally came to Europe from Persia via Turkey.  It is one of the earliest gemstones used in jewellery and was worn by Egyptian Pharaohs. Turquoise also has a rich history in the American southwest, with Native Americans creating jewellery from it for over 3000 years.

Turquoise has been worn as protection against the powers of darkness and today is regarded as the protective stone of pilots, aircrews and other high risk workers.  Given as a stone of friendship and affection, it is said to help faithfulness and consistency in relationships.

Birthstone for December

Wedding Anniversary stone: 5^th & 11^th years

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The Mohs’ Scale of Hardness

Gemstones are classified according to their hardness, on a scale of mineral hardness called the Mohs’ scale, created by Friedrich Mohs in 1812, and based on widely available minerals. The hardest mineral is diamond at 10, and the lowest is talc at 1 on the scale.

Gemstones with a hardness of 7 and over are the best gemstones for jewellery, but softer stones are used, provided the setting protects the stone. More care is needed with jewellery set with softer stones to avoid scratching by harder materials. Turquoise is a sky blue to green grey stone found in Iran, Kazakhstan, China, Australia, Mexico and Brazil.